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Fork in the Road: 2024’s food best-est from the wonderful world of science

We can’t grab the future, but we can find good footings in the past
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Researchers the world over are working hard to improve food and energy security.

There’s an interesting idea about the future—and past—early on in Vladimir Nabokov’s playful novel, Transparent Things. He wrote it at age 73, nearly 20 years after Lolita. Maybe the coolest thing about this novel is that he almost mocks his earlier work—something writers, or any of us, seldom do. 

Nabokov’s idea is this: “Perhaps if the future existed, concretely and individually, as something that could be discerned by a better brain, the past would not be so seductive: its demands would be balanced by those of the future. People might then straddle the middle stretch of the seesaw when considering this or that object. It might be fun.”

Until we all get better brains, I think whenever we humans come to the end of a year, we can feel a bit tipsy in more ways than one. So we like to conjure up the best of that seemingly solid, seductive past that appears all the more golden in the selective rearview mirror of life. Nothing like trying to keep our balance on the seesaw of life, especially when that amorphous future feels more fraught than ever.

So here we go, as we ring out the old year and welcome the new, or at least try to—my personal take on highlights from the wonderful world of food science this past year. The best-est of the best, as we used to say as kids.

But first, let’s tiptoe around that hard-to-grasp future since there’s at least one thing besides death and taxes we know for sure: We’re all eaters. And food is one of those amazing agents that’s much greater than it seems.

Depending on what we choose to put on our plates, it can help build up the things we care about in this world—or tear them down. It can help us be healthier and happier—or not. With all those seemingly insipid, small decisions we make every day, about where to grab a bite (or a beer), about what to stock in our fridges and cupboards and, in turn, ourselves, we can buttress up movements and policies and a future we believe in—or not. 

Do we support local farmers and fishers and orchardists with a tiny carbon footprint? Or obscure mega agri-businesses in foreign countries that depend on questionable farming practices, and ship stuff thousands of carbon-fuelled kilometres? (Anybody remember that golden idea of a 100-mile diet?) 

Do we surrender our hard-earned dollars to independent grocers and pubs and restaurants? Or big chain monoliths? Stinky’s on the Stroll, I’m thinking of you guys here, and all the independent business owners struggling in light of huge rent increases in Whistler and beyond. 

I remind us all that in the early days of Whistler Village, the development vision stipulated very loud and very clearly: No chain outlets. (Al Raine, Jim Moodie, Eldon Beck—bless your hearts.) That meant no McDonald’s. No 7-11s. No nadda like that so Whistler could maintain its character and offer visitors and locals alike a unique, authentic experience. Which is exactly what attracted everyone in the first place. Wonder what happened to that good idea.

Still, as we slip into the new year and try it on for size, keep in mind how food (and drink) choices can be powerful ways to create meaningful change. Including building connections. In real time. No phones allowed. It’s easy to do. Invite pals over, pot luck. Buy a stranger a drink at Stinky’s. Drop off a snack for a neighbour. It all helps build real connections—something we crave more than ever. And that, my friends, is just the beginning.

With that in mind, here are my three best-est choices from that seemingly simple world of food in 2024, all generated by the amazing scientists and researchers out there trying to help us better grasp our ungraspable, un-concrete future. 

Best wishes for 2025. It’s great to be alive!

GOOD STUFF FROM THE SEDUCTIVE PAST

Thanks to a recent report in New Scientist, the U.K.’s best science publication, and one of the finest in the world, 2024 went out on a doubly high note due to a project led by Coralie Salesse-Smith, a plant physiology researcher at the University of Illinois and a University of Waterloo grad. Coralie and her team are interested in optimizing photosynthesis to improve food and energy security—exactly what we need as we face down an ever-increasing world population plus huge food supply issues caused by massive droughts and more due to the climate crisis.

Making a simple genetic tweak to a plant enzyme called rubisco in three of the world’s major food crops—maize, sorghum and sugar cane—allowed these plants to take advantage of rising carbon dioxide levels. It also boosted their growth by about one fifth! Thanks to these brilliant young researchers, the finding should lead to the creation of new varieties whose yields go up as CO2 levels continue to rise. 

Second on my best-est list from 2024 can definitely guide you toward better food choices. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, folks. Read your labels! Especially to stay away from stuff you really want to avoid, like high-fructose corn syrup. 

The science has been kicking around for years, but now we know how fructose promotes the growth of tumours in certain cancers. It happens in our livers after it’s converted to fats known as lipids. A report in Genetic Engineering & Biotechnology News explains how cancerous tumours are literally “fed” by those lipids. The biggest source of fructose—a sugar found especially in honey and fruits—is high-fructose corn syrup, and that, my friends, is found in almost every processed food, not just cookies and candy. Ketchup, salad dressings, sauces, even tinned veggies can all contain high-fructose corn syrup. As I said, read your labels. 

Finally, this is the best Canadian expert on health and nutrition that I discovered in 2024. He’s got great ideas to help us balance on that seesaw between past and future. Dr. Scott Lear is a professor in Health Sciences at Simon Fraser University and holds the Pfizer/Heart and Stroke Foundation Chair in Cardiovascular Prevention Research at St. Paul’s Hospital. He also lives with heart disease. You can find his thoughtful, practical approaches on his blog, Become Your Healthiest You

Glenda Bartosh is an award-winning journalist who reminds you that a subscription to New Scientist or any number of good science publications costs about the same as dinner for two at a restaurant.